My actual M 42 This morning I've finished my M17 pics will follow

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Burger Schlesien Bad-Darkau

my M 17 for early war impression get my nervs to install that M 31 liner

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Burger Schlesien Bad-Darkau

Helmet painting project on a repro 35' lid.

I am in the process of having a M40 Q66 stahlhelm restored that has Post-War Norwegian paint.It will have a original metal liner band & exact reproduction liner and chinstrap installed and correct paint/texture..It will be my main reenacting helmet..The repro is getting retiared....I will have pictures posted here as soon as it is finished!

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In a man-to-man fight, the winner is he who has one more round in his magazine.
-Erwin Rommel


[b]
Grenadier Erich Kessler

Sta.Kp.Gren.Ers.Btl.199

II./984. Grenadier Regiment 275. Infanterie

I agree with you on what you said about Peiper's helmet.The runes are way too big on the decal..Originals looked nothing like this....Just a common reproduction....Thanks for posting a photo of a authentic example.

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In a man-to-man fight, the winner is he who has one more round in his magazine.
-Erwin Rommel


[b]
Grenadier Erich Kessler

Sta.Kp.Gren.Ers.Btl.199

II./984. Grenadier Regiment 275. Infanterie

I am getting a M40 Q66 shell restored for reenacting usage.It will be just as it left the factory in the 40's....I am sick of reproduction helmets...Original shells are the best way to go!

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In a man-to-man fight, the winner is he who has one more round in his magazine.
-Erwin Rommel


[b]
Grenadier Erich Kessler

Sta.Kp.Gren.Ers.Btl.199

II./984. Grenadier Regiment 275. Infanterie

Well done fantastic

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Burger Schlesien Bad-Darkau

Here's my original M40 Q66 Single Decal Army stahlhelm I use in my reenacting impression.It has been painted in the correct feldgrau color and real aluminum oxide powder texture,"Bigfoot" style Heer decal (very common on Quist made helmets).Original WWII German metal liner band (DRP 1943),Exact reproduction leather liner and chinstrap.

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In a man-to-man fight, the winner is he who has one more round in his magazine.
-Erwin Rommel


[b]
Grenadier Erich Kessler

Sta.Kp.Gren.Ers.Btl.199

II./984. Grenadier Regiment 275. Infanterie

M35 lid, finally got my DAK colour scheme right. Two layers of RAL8000 (baked in direct African sun for a couple of hours to settle), then some sanding of the second layer, followed by a paint-sand paste mixture (two tablespoons of dry sand, two tablespoons of RAL8000 - stir and apply thickly). It came out pretty swell, even if my Blackberry camera does not really do it full justice...

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"Klagt nicht - Kämpft!"

Just bought a new lid off fleabay

It is an original M42 ET-68 shell, finally got one large enough to fit my bonce lol,
but it needs some work doing to it, i will post some more pics when i recieve it, here
are a few from the Ebay site to show what it looks like





Peiper

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"After 12yrs in reenacting and im still around, my portrayals speaks for themselves"

Staff-Sgt, British Airborne Pathfinders Unit
ww2airbornegroup.webs.com

Yes POA1944, the decals on that particular helmet you commented on were hand painted, so yes they were slightly larger
than normal (see below), also the brim does appear shorter as it is a larger size helmet (size 61-62), and having the chinstrap
hooked over the front didn't help as it covered the brim



Since then i have repainted it and added a correct wire net (European WW2 period wire), with no decals (see below)



Here's another lid, this time an FJ type i did in the same style (below)



Peiper

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"After 12yrs in reenacting and im still around, my portrayals speaks for themselves"

Staff-Sgt, British Airborne Pathfinders Unit
ww2airbornegroup.webs.com

If you suggest that Pre 1945 there was only "single" twist chickenwire, you are wrong. Back in 1901, 2 patterns where patented in the Netherlands, a double and a double twist.

So, either would be accurate. But why so rusty?

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CDB taking it way too serious!

Been on a chicken coop since 1902.

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Uffz. Pankler - Landser an der Ostfront living history project, UK.

No mate it is the European 5 twist type not the modern US
type wire, as i researched this thoroughly before buying it,
also I added the "fake rust" (brown paint) because basically
as I read this "wartime" wire was not treated with anodised
(have I spelt it right?) processing, just bare steel wire
so after a couple of months exposed to the elements
it would go rusty I would've thought

Cheers Peiper

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"After 12yrs in reenacting and im still around, my portrayals speaks for themselves"

Staff-Sgt, British Airborne Pathfinders Unit
ww2airbornegroup.webs.com

Anodising is a treatment for alluminium. If you're going to waffle,atleast know what you're on about. I'm certain Erik knows what he's on about, have you seen the man's collection of original kit?!?

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